The following only covers black women in America. It is mainly based on “Hair Story” (2001) by Ayana D. Byrd and Lori L. Tharps:
In the 1920s there was a debate among blacks whether women should straighten their hair. Marcus Garvey, for example, was against it. But straight hair won in the end, so much so that most who were parents in the 1960s had known little else. Even men straightened their hair. It was upon this stage that the Afro burst forth.
The Afro, puffed out nappy hair, comes not from West Africa, where most blacks in America are from, but from South Africa. There it was called the Bush. In the late 1950s it arrived in Greenwich Village, a bohemian part of New York. Nina Simone was one of the first to wear it.
It first appeared in mainstream American culture in 1960 when Miriam Makeba wore one in the pages of Look magazine and again two years later when Cicely Tyson appeared on television with one. Some blacks told Tyson she was making black women look bad.
Later, by about 1966, leaders of the Black Power movement started appearing on the news. They wore Afros. Wearing an Afro now had a meaning: it showed support for Black Power, it showed you were proud to be black – not Negro or coloured, but black. Black was not a bad imitation of white, black was great and good all on its own – the whole “Black is beautiful” thing.
It caught on among university students, both male and female. Their parents did not think it was so beautiful. They had grown up on straightened hair, so to many of them it looked ugly and terrible. And some, of course, did not approve of Black Power.
Whites at first were unsettled by it: not just because of the Black Power thing but also because of its black pride message, which many whites read as, “I’m black, deal with it.” That was new: whites were used to blacks trying to be like them.
The Afro still had a meaning possibly as late as 1969, but by then it was all over: that was when the Jackson 5 started wearing it. When an act that safe and mainstream wears it you know it has sunk from political statement to fashion statement.
By 1971 it seemed like everyone was wearing it – at least if you go by the old “Soul Train” videos on YouTube. What that meant:
- The Afro had become mere fashion – and fashions never last. By 1977 the Afro was clearly on its way out.
- The only way to set yourself apart was to have a bigger Afro.
- Even blacks with “good hair” were wearing Afros.
The last two could only be achieved through chemicals – so not only had the Afro lost its political message but for many it was no longer even natural!
Afros ruled during this period, but many still straightened their hair. Cornrows also made a comeback.
See also:
Abagond,
Can you kindly clarify this small point??
Was the UNIA (Garvey) against women straightening their hair, or was the organisation merely reluctant to carry such adverts in its newspaper called the ‘Black Man'(??)…??
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At one time – not sure if it is still the case now – the Afro was a popular hairstyle amongst Fijians in the Pacific Isles
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In the 1920s there was a debate among blacks whether women should straighten their hair. Marcus Garvey, for example, was against it.
I am not against straighten hair. Black women should be able to style and wear their hair anyway they please just like every other woman in this world. I find it insulting how everything bw do is debated.
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And speaking of hair, I remember vieing in Tony Martin new book, on Marcus Garvey’ first wife, Amy Ashwood (this would also make a good suggestion post).
When she came to the use U.S in the 60s and the Nation of Islam courted her presence. She still had ‘straightened’ hair, and did not understand the ‘generational change’ e and why the need of hair was important? – but then again, if I remember correctly, she was coming from the UK, with a different cultural orientation to the US .
http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=CIt2AAAAMAAJ&q=Amy+ashwood+tony+martin&dq=Amy+ashwood+tony+martin&hl=en&ei=CUVPTNmvAY_94AbE0fSICA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CCwQ6AEwAA
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With regard to ‘straightened hair’, I have only heard this from one source. I would say quite reliable too.
He suggested that when the Egyptians were not shaving their head and wearing wigs. the women also straightened their hair
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Marcus Garvey was against straightening hair IN SPITE OF the fact that 75% of the advertising in his newspaper came from the black hair care industry. It was one of the few profitable black businesses back then.
It was mainly men who were against straightening. They were not only undercut by the advertising in the very newspapers where the debate was carried out but by the example of their very own wives!!! It was a losing battle.
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Cheers Abagond for the clarification.
I should have asked more question a bit more tightly and ask:
‘Are you aware of anyone who was forbidden to join the organisation because they had straight hair??’
Whilst on this issue
Are you aware that it was a “lesser known” Garveyite from Dominican Rep., Carlos Cooks in the US who was one of the first to promote ‘natural hair’ within his organisation amongst other things even before the 60s(??)
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J:
I do not know if anyone was kept out because of straight hair. From what I know it was not a point of doctrine, but I could be wrong.
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It was mainly men who were against straightening.
This is interesting. But do you think it’s the same today?
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I do not know if anyone was kept out because of straight hair. From what I know it was not a point of doctrine, but I could be wrong.
I wonder what was going through the minds of those that had naturally straight hair from their – ahem – “indian” blood?
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The above is not one of your most insightful comments ColorofLuv
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Here’s an interesting one…
Malaysia has opened its first hair studio specialising in “Afro” hairstyles. 2003
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/asia-pacific/2956680.stm
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A few weeks ago there was an African event in Belgrade and part of the program were African hairstyles. You could go there and learn about African hairstyles and even get one. Nobody saw that as disrespectful (and I sense it would be seen as such in the US… African hairstyles on white women I mean).
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i don’t think this issue will never die. as far as hair goes, i’ve always said it’s a choice and for black women to straighten their hair doesn’t mean we’re ashamed of our hair. but it seems no matter how much some black women say that, people will find a way to make it bad to straighten our hair and wearing natural hair is the way to go. i just hate when some people throw out “self hating” when it comes to straighten hair towards, as if being natural means you’re proud of who you are. that’s just an assumption. you’re black no matter what kind of hair you have.
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The thing with the Afro was that it was not natural for quite of few black people. If you have extremely soft hair, you need a lot of product to hold it up. If it grows irregular, then it was quite an effort to pick it into symmetry. Very few women had the guts to wear hardly any hair. Eventually, I found the most natural, with the least work was to wear my hair very short.
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^You’re right Hathor; my natural hair begins to flop after a certain length (height?) because my strands are fine. Not to mention the front is never nearly as long as the back.
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Is how black women wear their hair really ever been a choice? Will you be fired from your job or find that–depending on the industry you work in–no amount of professional expertise will get you past the initial interview? Black women have always been expected to conform to the established standards of beauty.
When I went natural, I had to accept the fact that people (many of them black women) would respond to me differently. Even in my own immediate family, natural styles are described as ugly. No one has called me ugly to my face; but, if the way I wear my hair is being depicted as so terrible, why should I think they’re not giving me a back-handed insult.
When in the United States of America has any black woman who relaxes her hair been under attack? Who calls her ugly? When is she asked if she washes her hair and gets a surprised gasp when the answer is yes? Forgive me, I just don’t buy that trope of women with relaxed hair being under siege from black militants.
I enjoy natural hair styles because I love the way I look and having wash-and-go-right-out-the-door hair has been GREAT. The only political statement I’m making is that I have better things to do with my time and my money.
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Here it’s making a big comeback but not with blacks but White kids. I see a lot of them with a semi Afro that can only be done with curly hair.
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Leaveumthinking,
Thank you! I don’t do it to be white, but everyone talks down on me because I straighten my hair.
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My mother turned 18 in 1970 and she’s always maintained that where she lived (Southeast DC – she went to Anacostia Senior High School when theer were still some white kids there!) the bush exploded once Martin Luther King was assassinated. According to her, that was what pushed alot of people to say eff this, I’m growing my hair out natural.
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Abagond, I’m sure the afro hairstyle has been around since a long time ago. If a black person doesn’t cut their hair and its not relaxed or anything, they’ll naturally have an afro.
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@ Leaveumthinking
yes, it is insulting.
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@ Dee
Um, just no. Not every black person’s natural hair will be an afro without being cut. A black person’s hair will more likely become an afro at very short lengths but not always. Has to do with all that darn genetic diversity and um, black people not being a monolithic entity and all.
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Not everyone’s hair is like that, but I am 100% sure people have had afros before the 1900s.
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Maripoya,
THANK YOU! I’m sick and tired of BW who relax their hair acting like there is a Drop Squad of napptural sistas who roam Black America terrorizing them.
Even when I transitioned and was on my highest of nappy-loving high I NEVER told or suggested another sista go natural. Now, I wish the opposite were true. I got many unsolicitied (as in ALL of them) requests and demands to straighten my hair (“When are you doing to do something with that mess?” “You look like a homeless woman.” “Have you turned dyke?” I swear fo’ Black Jesus I got that last question more than once) often from complete strangers. I got more hairdresser names and phone numbers with the overt or covert urging that I call and make an appointment as soon as possible. I’ve had plenty of men tell me how cute I’d be and how datable or fuckable they’d find me if I straightened my hair. And yes, my own mother, everyday for nine months straight said something negative about my hair until I finally pointed out what she was doing and that no matter how much she complained, I was NOT straightening my hair ever again. Then of course, I had to hear about how I’d never get a man looking like THAT, blah, blah, blah.
I’ve been napptural for almost 15 years. I think I would have been around to see some poor, put-upon weaved or relaxed sista getting a dressing down. Honestly, the only place I’ve seen such speculations about the mindset of BW who present with straightened hair has been online. Meanwhile, napptural women, especially the kind that don’t have “dat good hurr” and/or have short hair, get it in the neck BOTH online and in 3-D.
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although the fro is the most natural hairstyle people with kinky hair can have, it should not be synonymous with “natural”. natural hair is anything without chemicals in it. that could be locs, sistalocs, or just a natural head that prefers hairstyles other than the fro.
ditto Maripoya and Witchsistah.
with the exception of the few black nationalists one might meet at a HBCU or online, there is no backlash whatsoever against relaxed hair. but is there something wrong with the backlash against relaxed hair online in black hair forums?
i too feel that it is about time black women started doing whatever the hell we please with our hair and anything else, however, when there are 5 year olds getting relaxers (chemically similar to Agent Orange and Plutonium…and maybe gasoline), having it aid in their already depleted self esteem not to mention the fact that 99% of the consumers are black women, while 99% of the owners of these businesses are white and asian…..and all of this is happening because women with relaxers do the same to their female children because they have never educated themselves on caring for natural hair…..then there gets to be more issues to relaxing one’s hair than the image and supposed manageability.
and a man going on a crusade and holding public debates about black womens hair?? nonsense. thats an exercise in patriarchy. what does any man know about the links society has made upon ideas of beauty, femininity, class, intelligence etc. unless they have lived it?
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I completely 100% agree with Witchsistah & Maripoya!!!!
I’ve been natural for 3 1/2 years. The 4th anniversary of my BC(big chop) in October/November. I first became natural when I was in high school I was 16. Before I was natural i relaxed and dyed my hair. I was tired of going to salons all day for hours and my hair was much better off and healthier while it was natural. When I was a child my mom took great care of my hair in it’s natural state and it was mid-back length.
I had impulsively cut my hair from bra strap length to the roots. I received so much backlash and rude comments from the kids at school, family members, strangers, ex-boyfriends. Almost all of these people talking bad about my hair texture were always Black. Kids would stick objects in my hair, call me names like “African Booty Scratcher” or when I had my hair in twist they would call me “weeds”.
People would ask me if I was a lesbian and I have many
Black guys tell me that I need to straighten my hair and that I used to be sexy with the relaxed hair. My boyfriend at the time, who was a Black guy hated my hair. He supported me in the beginning but he told me that I don’t look good with the natural hair and said that I looked like a boy sometimes.
These are the same Black men who bitch and moan about Black women relaxing their hair, wearing weaves, dyeing their hair blonde. I’ve never been called names of attacked for wearing relaxed hair. Nor have a told a woman with a relaxer that she is self-hating. But I have had plenty of relaxed heads telling me that I need my hair fixed, I need to grease my scalp and that I need to use black people products and that a relaxer makes you hair grow. GTFOH!
Black women are the only group of women who are constantly ostracized for their hair care regimen or stereotyped for wearing your hair a certain way. Why can’t we wear are hair in peace?
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Re: the backlash against relaxed hair.
You’ve not had to deal with feeling mofos’ fingers in your crop, spin around to confront the non-home-training-having heffalump only to have them look at you like “yeah, WHAT?” as though since you got hair like THAT you have no rights not to have it seen as an odd curiosity much less have your physical boundaries respected.
You’ve not lived until you’ve gone to a job interview and seen the interviewer staring constantly at your HAIR, not at your head, in your eyes but AT YOUR HAIR and knowing that despite your qualifications and experience you definitely did NOT get that job. You’ve not been called into a supervisors office and lectured about “looking professional” or “professional attire” and knowing they’re talking about your hair. You’ve not had to endure co-workers making jokes about your hair.
You’ve not had Whites and non-Whites, including Blacks assume you’re some kind of Mau Mau or a “bad darkie” because your hair is so “radical” because you choose to wear it THE WAY IT GROWS OUT YOUR HEAD. You’ve not been subjected to people telling you that you have their permission to grow your hair naptural because you “got dat good hurr” or tell you that you shouldn’t because you “got dat bad hurr.” You’ve not had total strangers feel they have a right not only to have an opinion about how you wear your hair but the right to voice it directly to you.
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“You’ve not had Whites and non-Whites, including Blacks assume you’re some kind of Mau Mau or a “bad darkie”
A Mau Mau! Hahaha!! lol!
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I’ve been wearing my hair natural for a few years now. Every time some one said something about my hair to my face, it was positive. Notice, I said to my face. LOL. No one in my social circle and not even family members dared to tell me how I should wear my hair. I guess everyone has different experiences.
But I will say this: Due to the ignorance and toxic mentality that many black folks possess, I distance myself from them many times, not all of the time, but much of the time.
Now to the posters above who say that black men tell them how they don’t look as sexy with natural hair, well consider it a blessing in disguise. Trust me, it’s a blessing in disguise. When I was relaxed, all I dated was black guys because basically that’s all who approached. Most of their conversation was about my exterior or either bringing up some comparison with another woman. Black men tend to be very shallow. Much of their conversation is about butt and breasts. Therefore, I never felt much security with them and for good reason.
When I went natural, non black men just came out of the woodwork. I mean white, hispanic, persian, arab, indian, asian, you name it were “hollering”. A few black men still hollered, but they were the older more mature type. I currently date outside of my race. These men don’t focus on my exterior. They compliment and keep the conversation moving about topics that leads to getting to know me as a person. Those are the type of men I like, so those are the type of men I date. With them, my hair is accepted as part of my blackness. I don’t have to “explain” it to them. I find black men attractive, but I am no longer attracted to them as mates. That ship has sailed and SUNK. I never thought I would feel this way but I do. I am more comfortable dating non bm, and I will most likely marry one.
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People could wear sisterlocks today and many do. They’re natural and go good in the office. Many sistas start having hairlength for the first time in their lives. The afro has a tendency to break the ends off and sometimes is harder to take care of than straightened hair…especially if you lie down. I love it when I see dark skinned girls with sisterlocks with red tips dyed. their hair is probably the longest they had in theSir lives. Some men don’t care about length, but women do. I think the start up is hard to do and a little pricey, but worth it i hear
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Nell, I think 5 yos getting relaxers is akin to child abuse. It’s hard to believe that people don’t know how to take care of a little girls natural hair. I didn’t get a relaxer until 13 years old.
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I saw a 6 or 7-year-old child in the mall yesterday (this was in Los Angeles) with an almost butt-length sew in weave. It looked like the poor child’s mom too the hair off all of her Barbie’s and slapped it on the child’s head. It looked ridiculous, but it was also just really sad.
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@Jasmin
What the French toast! I”m going to need you to stop lying to me! 🙂 I live in Cali and I know people can do some crazy things out here, but that’s just ridiculous. Oh my people, my people (shakes head in shame.)!
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@Shan
Why do you think more non-Black men like your natural hair versus Black men? That seems odd to me.
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mochasister, I think they like natural hair because it’s different and because they haven’t had the “afro-textured hair is bad” indoctrination that many blacks have had. I mean, think about it: if a white or other non-black man wanted someone with straight hair, they could just be with a white or non-black woman. They also have straight hair themselves, so it’s nothing special to them.
I know my SO loves when I wear twist-outs or braid-outs. He thinks textured hair is one of the most beautiful types of hair because it can styled in so many ways.
Disclaimer: This is IF the guy is attracted to other women in the first place. If a white or non-black guy is primarily attracted to non-black women, then he will generally like straighter hair as well.
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Here it’s making a big comeback but not with blacks but White kids. I see a lot of them with a semi Afro that can only be done with curly hair
There area a lot more whites that can sport natural fros than many would think – or that do have natural “3b-4a type” hair.
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@ J –
J The above is not one of your most insightful comments ColorofLuv (regarding much earlier comment from 7/27)
I can understand why you would feel that way after I re-read my post. My main point was the supposition of a backlash for thos Blacks that had naturally straight, fine or wavy hair that could not wear a “natural” afro. As some of the previous comments eluded to, I wonder if there was any backlash towards those individuals.
If talking about Indian hair “ahemm”, offends you, then I suggest we go over to a different thread for clarification.
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I think it’s funny most of the people that’s told me my hair was nappy had almost no hair at all. Most of them couldn’t ever grow their to their shoulders or it grows super slow. I’ll take having “nappy” over having short “good” hair any day. Their hair is constantly being burnt out on the crap they put in their head.
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Mochasister,
That’s why I have to give the side eye to California (LA) people who say, “Oh, we don’t have the hair issues Blacks in the rest of the country have–we don’t relax.” How is slapping a pound of weave on your head any different? (Note: I don’t have anything against relaxers or weaves–just bad relaxers and bad weaves.)
Natasha,
I agree. My boyfriend told me he found out about natural hair from blogs he reads, and he was totally clueless about Black hair issues. He also straight-up told me he prefers my hair natural over relaxed–he said “I look nice” with straight hair, but “curly hair is more interesting”, and he likes to play with it. I notice that whenever he says he likes a Black woman’s hair on the street, it’s always natural (usually an afro or twist-out). He doesn’t like weaves either, but I don’t know why that is.
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I don’t know about your boyfriend, but I know why (some) men dislike weaves: they are not seen as “natural”. Some guys don’t find that appealing, almost like fake boobs, or even a make up (yes, many men say they hate makeup, but what most of them hate is makeup that shows in a bad way.)
My husband says black women look better with natural hair because that’s their hair and everybody looks best with the hair of type/texture/colour that is natural to them.
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Mira,
That’s probably it, but it doesn’t apply to celebrities. My boyfriend loves Gabrielle Union, and when he asked me about celebrities with weaves, I told him all celebrities wear weaves, because their hair can’t take the intense styling. He goes, “Even Gabrielle Union?”, and you should’ve seen how his face fell. But he still loves her–do you think celebs get a pass? It’s the same thing with Kim K.: men know about her surgeries but still idolize her, while a regular woman with the same things would be derided. Hmm…
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Jasmin,
“I notice that whenever he says he likes a Black woman’s hair on the street, it’s always natural (usually an afro or twist-out).”
and
“My boyfriend loves Gabrielle Union”
Same with mine. I think he can appreciate straight hair, but loves textured hair.
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Not sure what to say here. When it comes to my husband, celebs don’t get a pass (and speaking on black women, the only ones he knows of are celebrities), but I know many men do see celebs differently. What they find “unnatural” and “fake” on everyday women, they consider attractive on celebrities. And they often fail to notice fake boos, plastic surgery, etc. on celebrities. I understand the power of fantasy, but I always assumed celebs are, on average, more “unnatural” and “fake” than your everyday woman.
(Then again, it’s not like women dislike male celebs so it’s a fair game, I think).
All in all, I agree that whites might prefer black natural hair because they never heard negative stereotypes about it. I know I’ve never heard anything of that sorts.
And while I’m not against doing anything you want with your own hair, I must admit I do see the logic behind “natural suits you best” (this goes for all races and is not limited to hair, but can also be said about skin shade, eye colour, etc.)
But I understand the issue of black women’s hair is never just about fashion.
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Natasha,
I’m going to have to interrogate the boyfriend to see if he has any long-lost cousins from Sweden. 😉 (Or is it Switzerland…shoot!)
Mira,
I’ve found that guys who like natural hair tend to be not-as-obsessed as other guys with long hair. Just like Abagond, my boyfriend likes thick hair, but he has a “take it or leave” it attitude toward long hair. Not that natural hair can’t be long (obviously it can), but you see the length of straightened hair more easily, and you don’t want a guy who gushes when your hair is down your back and straightened and then is indifferent when it’s in it’s natural state.
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Jasmin, yes, it’s Sweden. He’s of Swedish and Norwegian descent (father is half Norwegian), with some German on his maternal side. He has many cousins, including a B-list actor, but none around the Bay Area as far as I know.
He likes lots of hair on women, whether curly or straight, but he doesn’t dislike short haircuts as long as it suits the person’s face.
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Ça c’est Paris…
Only in Paris…
http://www.afrik.com/article20484.html
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[…] can’t write their own history. In the United States, when someone tells you to speak English, straighten your hair, and embrace the American Dream, it really means your people are ugly and unimportant; pretend to […]
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Maripoya, Witchsistah
I hope it wasnt my comment that offended you. I guess I should have made it clear that Im not against bw straighten their hair and Im certainly not against bw wearing their natural god given hair. I never said or even suggested that natural bw go around attacking bw with relaxed hair. All Im saying is that bw should be able to do want they want with their hair like all other women. Whats wrong with that?
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I started wearing a ‘fro in 1969, and my parents hated it. It was still very much a political statement in Oklahoma at that time–and it wasn’t so late in the Civil Rights era in that state that such a statement could get a young black man hurt or killed.
But it seemed very important at that time to embrace our DNA. Personally, I still feel that way and still feel it’s the healthiest state of mind.
Later in the mid 70s, Air Force appearance regulations allowed a short ‘fro (1.5 inches), but specifically prohibited corn rows. It would take about 10 years–time enough for black women to reach ranks where they could influence policy decisions before the cornrow prohibition would disappear without comment.
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“Embrace our DNA”…? 😀
Jeezis, what a Hitlerian concept.
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I feel at this point of history,the struggles of my poor ancestors was to enable a certain freedom of this system we are in,including doing whatever i like with my hair,my grandmother was able to do her hair in wigs,bouffant in the 40s,50s,my mom did Afros in the 70s,relaxed in the 80s,and i feel like doing whatever i like,relaxed ,weaves or natural,according to the fashion of today and the resources i have to get it.And i feel insulted by accusations of trying to be white by relaxing my hair,i actually have a weave,and my natural hair is under,growing gracefully and awaiting the next anticipated style,as a form of expression and wide choices to do so.Because i am and will always be me.
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I believe Black women should be able to wear their hair however they want to. I don’t relax my hair at all and I only wear braids and weaves for convience and because I don’t know anyone in my area who can do natural hair.
I wish I can find someone who can do natural hair.
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I was researching the politics of afro hair & came across your blog …There are some good historical images & accounts on this website..
http://www.egyptsearch.com/forums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=15;t=005439;p=1#000000
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2016: Maria Borges becomes the first model with an Afro at a Victoria Secret’s Fashon Show:
http://xonecole.com/meet-maria-borges-the-first-model-to-rock-a-fro-in-the-victoria-secret-fashion-show/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss
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^^^ Love it.
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It would have been nice to see pictures of the hairstyles; especially with the celebrities.
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Came across this witty video from an African-Canadian travel blogger: “5 questions you should never ask a black woman about her hair”.
OneikaTraveller answers, “… the top 5 burning questions non-Black people always seem to have about Black women’s hair.” At 4:42 minutes, it is educational and entertaining.
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVyaF1BGXa8)
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White people need to learn about boundaries and keep their hands out of Black folks heads. And don’t ask stupid questions such as how often do you wash your hair?
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I tell them I’ve never washed it.
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OneikaTraveller is pretty funny, the video seemed shorter than it was.
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I really related to question #5. I’ve often had White people comment about how different my hair style was from day to day. That was especially true when my hair was shoulder length. Like OneikaTraveller, my hair style changed with my mood and work load.
Sometimes White women will play the false equivalence game with a statement like, “I don’t mind if people touch my hair”. That comment ignores the history of Black people being touched without their permission and in very inappropriate ways over the past 400 years.
Like Mary Burrell said, it is about “boundaries”.
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